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    How to Assemble RORO series log sauna

    The sauna we use in the example here was RORO model R2017 installed in Sutton, NSW in January 2007. This log cabin is a pre-fabricated unit that only took us about three hours to put together. It is about 2 x 1.7m which is large enough for 4 people to sit or 2 people to recline. We built the sauna right over a concrete slab that was built prior to assembly by the owner. Building Base and Walls The wood pieces that came in the kit were 38mm thick Nordic White Spruce. They’re notched at the corners to lock together like the logs in our log cabin, so we call them “logs.”
    Couple of words about the choice of timber here. The following properties are required for the timber used in sauna construction:
    • low heat timber to prevent waste of heat in the sauna room and to prevent the surfaces from burning the skin.
    • low thermal conductivity in surfaces adjacent to the sauna.
    • good resistance to heat and moisture.
    • the surface must be able to absorb and exude moisture.
    • acoustic properties
    • a pleasant scent and appearance
    The grade of timber used for these purposes must:
    • have few knots
    • exude little resin
    • be porous
    Spruce with few knots is one of the best choices of timber suited for all surfaces in a sauna. OK. Let’s continue with our assembly. The first step is to lay out the base logs and level them. If your floor is a little off level you can shim the frame to level it out. (Note: It is very important to make sure that the base is perfectly leveled to avoid problems with door closing later on) The base logs are unique because they have these notches which we used to tie all the logs together.
    Once you put two base logs on the floor, it is time to connect them with two side logs:
    The logs for the walls are all pre-cut at the factory. The long logs are for the back, the shorter ones are for the side walls, and the most short ones to put around the door opening of the front wall. They had tongue-and-groove edges for a snug fit. The grooves go down and tongues go up.
    Now it’s time to decide where you will install the heater: on the left or on the right side of the front sauna cabin. Once you’ve decided where your heater would be mounted, you put the first short log with the round hole there. This is done for the air intake:
    In the fourth round, we put in a log that has another round hole for air out:
    Note: As a rule of thumb the air vent “OUT” must be installed on the opposite side from the air vent “IN” e.g. If you decided to mount the heater on the left side of the sauna front, the air vent “OUT” log must be installed on the right side of the sauna cabin.
    After the sixth round of wall logs were up, we installed threaded stabilizing rods in the holes of the logs:
    Note: Depending on the height of the actual place where you install the sauna, you might insert rods earlier e.g. after the third round or so) Then the rest of the logs slid down over the rods. We continued to the tops of the walls which were about 2 meters high. The last logs were planned flat on top. This type of sauna kit is designed to fit under most existing ceilings. With the walls done, we tightened the nuts down over the top and bottom of the threaded rods. This draws the logs together and secures them firmly. There is some settling that occurs, so we’ll re-tighten the screws after 4 to 6 weeks:
    Ceiling The ceiling comes in two pre-built pieces.
    To support the ceiling, we screwed cove molding into the logs 40-44 mm below the top. These should be level with one another. We secured a strip of insulating tape over the top of the molding, then slid the two ceiling pieces down over the molding. Once it’s done, we connected both ceiling parts with extra panel that is included in the package:
    Benches, Door and Heater The Aspen benches slid in over supports that were secured to the walls:
    Note: In bigger models with “Luxury” pack there is a third upper bench which needs to be bolted together with the standard upper bench to form an L-shaped surface. This sauna model was supplied with “Luxury” pack:
    We secured the backrest above the top bench with screws. We’ve done the same for the bench skirt. Wooden duckboard is simply placed on the floor. This sauna supplied with a 6.0 kilowatt electric heater which we hung from brackets next to the door where the air vent “IN” was. Some heaters have separate control panels, but ours has the controls mounted right on it. The heater must be direct wired and connected by certified electrician to the 240 volt, 25 amp service that the heater required. This kit comes with rocks that we stacked inside the unit to radiate sauna heat. There was also a guard rail which was secured around the heater to keep people from touching it.
    The door jamb rests on the sill and was secured by nailing the exterior casing into the logs. We also inserted insulation material supplied with the sauna in to the gap between the top log and the door for proper insulation. Then we nailed the interior casing over the door. You can also choose the way the door opens.
    That completed our sauna installation:

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